Exploring Croatia: Day 4 in Dubrovnik

After a busy few days we approached our final day in Dubrovnik where the plan was to visit Lokrum Island, just a 15-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s Old Port. This island was a highlight of the trip for me, it feels like stepping into a completely different world. Packed with pine, cypress, and olive trees, the island is a protected nature reserve where wild peacocks and rabbits wander freely which completely makes this dreamlike vibe.

Lokrum’s history is just as rich as its greenery. It was once home to Benedictine monks, whose legend says the island is cursed after they were forced to leave in the 18th century. Later, it became the summer retreat of Austrian archduke Maximilian, who left behind a botanical garden that is still thriving today.

Scattered across the island, you can also find a medieval monastery, hidden chapels, and the ruins of old fortifications like Fort Royal, which offers sweeping views back to Dubrovnik and the Adriatic.

Lokrum has starred on screen too. Fans of Game of Thrones might recognise its 11th-century Benedictine monastery and gardens, which doubled as parts of Qarth in the series. The island even has a small GoT exhibition where you can sit on a replica of the Iron Throne; a fun stop for fantasy buffs.

Beyond its Hollywood moment, Lokrum carries wilder secrets. It’s home to over ten species of bats, making it an important natural habitat as well as a bit of an eerie curiosity. Far from being scary, the bats play a vital role in keeping the island’s ecosystem healthy, controlling insect populations and balancing the nocturnal life of the reserve.

Visitors come to Lokrum for its mix of history and nature, but also for its hidden swimming spots. From rocky coves to the famous Dead Sea lagoon, a small saltwater lake perfect for a float. With no cars, no overnight stays, and just the sound of cicadas in the air, Lokrum is the kind of place that invites you to slow down and explore at your own pace.

As interested as I am in this islands history, the beauty and wildlife is what captivated me the most. I've travelled to quite a few places and islands but Lokrum really surprised me with its serenity. I didn't expect it to be so mesmerising due to its closeness to the mainland, but it really is the most perfect break from the city. For me this made Dubrovnik one of the best travel spots, for the ease of how convenient this paradise is to access.

The ferry runs every 30 minutes from 9am and the last boat leaving the Old Port at 7pm. Tickets can be purchased for €30 round trip for adults and €5 for children. We purchased ours online or you can be purchase them from vendors along the port and the way down. The ride is short but can be rather treacherous, a child was screaming our entire ride because of the rockiness of the boat (thank God for AirPods) though it did seem to make half of the passenegrs laugh and the otehr half sigh.

Tours are available on sites like GetYourGuide or Viator but most people go for the day to explore on their own accord. With plenty to see and do, the island is only 2km long and easy to navigate with maps dotted around and easy to follow walking trails, its really not possible to get lost or wander too far off path. We managed to see every spot on the island map in the few hours we spent there.

Our first stop was to check out the botanical gardens which felt like stepping into a little green oasis. They were first planted in the late 19th century by Archduke Maximilian of Habsburg, who had a fascination for exotic plants and shipped species from all over the world to the island. (Fun fact: Maximilian is the very same Habsburg prince who went on to briefly become Emperor of Mexico before meeting a rather tragic end.)

Today, more than 500 plant species grow there, from towering palms and eucalyptus trees to spiky cacti and succulents that look almost surreal against the Adriatic backdrop. The gardens aren’t perfectly manicured and maintained, but that really worked for me as a part of its charm. The gardens feel wild and a little mysterious, especially with peacocks wandering freely through the paths. For me, it was a peaceful break from the rocky swimming spots, and a reminder that Lokrum’s history is just as layered and eclectic as its landscape.

Next to the gardens lies the heart of Lokrum's history with its Benedictine Monastery complex, whose ruins date back to the 11th century. For centuries, this was home to Benedictine monks who cultivated the island and left behind the legendary “curse of Lokrum” when they were forced to leave (a story locals still whisper about today). Walking through the cloisters and stone corridors, you get a glimpse of how grand and self-sufficient the complex once was, now softened by gardens and the sound of waves in the distance.

Attached to the ruins is the Chapel of the Annunciation, a small but atmospheric church whose weathered walls seem to hum with history. It might not be as ornate as Dubrovnik’s cathedrals, but its quiet charm makes it one of the island’s most soulful spots.

For Game of Thrones fans, the monastery and its gardens hold extra magic; they were used as filming locations for the wealthy city of Qarth, where Daenerys sought allies in Season 2. Add in the Iron Throne replica gifted by HBO, and this centuries-old site now doubles as a pilgrimage point for fantasy lovers and history buffs alike!

My favourite spot on Lokrum turned out to be the simply named “Rocks” on the map; a label that Chloe and I couldn’t help but laugh at. But I had to eat my words pretty quickly, because these were no ordinary rocks. After days spent on Croatia’s sandy beaches, this rugged stretch of coastline felt completely different. A natural lounge of stone ledges and hidden coves where warm, clear water teemed with little fish and crabs. All around, the sounds of the Adriatic waves crashing against the cliffs made it one of the island’s most unexpectedly relaxing places. There were even groups of people diving off the rocks into the crashing water which were a joy to watch, but the water seemed a little too treacherous for me to give that a go.

After this we stopped for lunch at Lacroma Restaurant after reading some great reviews online. The food is to no fault, we both ordered the GOT burger which was definitely one fo the biggest and best burgers I have ever had. The only fault I ahd with this restaurant was the outdoor seating. Before we got our food we were sat outside, surrounded by peacocks, their babies and tortoises; it was an insane dining experience. Everything was fun and games until our food arrived...

The waitress placed down our food and said "Be careful, the peacocks will come and try to eat your fries". Chloe chuckled, but I examined the waitresses expression to see she was definielty NOT joking. Within seconds we were surrounded by so many peacocks trying to get at our food, I started freaking out. I grabbed my plate and ran out of there because the birds were getting a little too close for my liking. I went to sit inside and because of its open-plan there were even peacocks indoors. Yes, the restaurant had peacocks just walking around inside. So the food was great, however I couldn't really relax the whole time as I was in fear of being swarmed by peacocks again. If you have no fear of wild animals and feel you can protect your fries then I'm sure you will enjoy this dining experience a lot more than I did.

Other than the gorgeous spot to relax by the rocks, Lokrum is also home to Mrtvo More aka The Dead Sea. I had never been in a Dead Sea body of water before this and shamefully didn't know why they even called it that (FYI it's because of the saltiness of the water and how it makes your body float in it). This small, salt filled lake was a natural wonder where I could have easily spent all day relaxing in; the water was particularly clear and calm and surrounded by so much natural greenery.

A couple highlights here for me were hearing a peacock cry from one edge of the cove a mighty shriek before swooping down all the way across to the other side almost as if they did it on purpose for everyone to stop and look. Beside not knowing what the Dead Sea was, Chloe also didn't know that peacocks could fly- so this place was particularly astounding for us both. Those brave enough were jumping from the top of the cliff and into the water (don't worry it is about 10m deep so it's more than safe to do this) which was another fantasic feast for the eyes- this place did not fail to amuse us in the slightest.

There was a little spot to grab a drink next to Mrtvo More called Lake Cocktail Bar, which I do not recommend. It is a shame as its the only spot there to grab a drink, however we €8 for an iced coffee which, as an addict, was the worst iced coffee I had ever tasted. It also came with a pasta straw which I had learnt about recently as an environmentally friendly option, which fitted this nature reserve of an Island, and it made Chloe laugh watching me eat the straw as I drank the horrendous coffee I had been served.

After this abomination of a coffee I had convinced Chloe to tackle a hike along the Path of Paradise up to Fort Royal. Its construction began in 1806 during the French occupation under Napoleon, intended as a military stronghold to protect Dubrovnik’s strategic coastline.

After the French period, the Austrian Empire completed the fort in 1835 and named it "Maximilian’s Tower" in honor of Archduke Maximilian Ferdinand of Habsburg, who once resided on the island. Built with a circular stone design to withstand artillery, the fort played a key role in maritime defence, overseeing ships approaching Dubrovnik.

Along the route you become entangled with a multiplicity of ruins that are overgrown with greenery which felt like something out of a dystopian novel (or a GOT episode).

The hike was rather gruelling, but we left it towards the end of the day when it wasn't peak temperatures and I managed to do it a pair of Nike sliders too (probably not my best advice tough as I did nearly fall over as I slid down the rocky path coming back down. The view from the peak was breathtaking and the Fort Royal ruins added to the dream-like vibes which made me understand why they called the hike the Path to Paradise.

After a rewarding hike down, it was time to head back to mainland and have a relaxing night in after a long day before we set off on our flight home the following morning. Lokrum was an outstanding highlight of my trip to Dubrovnik and one that no traveller should miss out on; it really highlighted for me just how beautiful Croatia is.

fort royal ruins with woman looking out on top